Forget Rio, Salvador is party central.
Since we last talked, I was in Rio de Janeiro, and had a lovely walk around Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, sipping out of a coconut. Then I joined the GAP tour that I'm now on, and flew to Salvador (and yes, I'm well aware flying is incredibly bad, but it's the first and last flight on this tour).
Salvador is quite amazing. We're staying right in the old part of town, with most buildings and the cobblestone streets dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. It's a port town, and back in the day it was the main hub of colonial Brazil. It's now a UNESCO world heritage site, with bars covering the basement windows of many buildings where they used to keep the slaves. (Sorry I have no pictures as it would be a nightmare to upload them on this connection.) It's surreal, with people going about their day to day lives in this blast from the past. Most places don't look like they've been painted for a while either... Restoration work is ongoing.
The first night here we realised how sweet our hotel is - equiped with a pool and bar, and definitely the most modern- and comfortable-looking building in the whole of this part of town. We also realised that we had a great group of eleven people - all good people, and also a mix. Two couples, four people twenty and below, and the others high-twenties and up. We also have an awesome Venezuelan guide who's done this trip 17 times now, after being a detective, electrical engineer, motocross champion, marine... He also guided John MacBeth (some NZ sports commentator apparently...) around Venezuela for the TV show Intrepid Journeys.
Anyway, that night (Tuesday night - one of the main party nights in Salvador, along with Sunday - some African influenced thing) we had dinner, and then went to the main square and listened to the drumming, and watched the dancing in the street. There was also singing, and lots of stalls selling beers and caiparinhas. Some got into it and danced, meeting a really good local dancer - but more on him later. Some also got money stolen straight out of their hands. Salvador feels dangerous at times, especially at night. There are lots of homeless, and lots of crackheads. It's very sad. And when you travel in groups of white people speaking english, your a huge target for beggars, and people trying to get you to buy things, or trick you into buying things. They put necklaces around your neck as a "gift", then demand you pay them money for it. They also tie things around your wrists for good luck, which are meant to be free, but you have to be very wary of their true motives.
Wednesday day we sat by the pool, then walked around the town - splitting up into various groups. There is a handicraft market, but most things are very similar to a point, and though I've been offered many things, I haven't felt the urge to buy anything yet. There are also lots of jandals for sale - the big brand is called Haviana and the local ones are made in Brazil.
That night we went to an amazing dance show that demonstrated about six different kinds of dances. There were dances about gods, fishing, harvesting and capoeira. The fire dance was amazing, so was the end of harvest one - with knives sparking as they "fought" with each other. But the most impressive was, of course, the capoeira. The guys were better than olympic gymanists, pulling of amazing flips with no protective mats - just as many do on the streets here, but better. Slavador is truly the dance capital of Brazil.
We then went out for nibbles and drinks to celebrate someone's birthday, and during met our dancing friend again. He sells things in the street, and it turns out he lives just a few doors down from our hotel. He offered us dance lessons for the next day. I went. He took us to a place with a view of the amazing harbour at 4pm, and we danced in the street for a good hour and a half or so. Tourists were taking pictures and the locals were laughing, but it was good fun. The sun was setting infront of us (it sets quite early this time of year). I learnt some afro-Brazilian moves, and I reconfirmed that I cannot dance. I got blisters on my feet as I had to be barefoot so sayeth tradition.
That night we went to an amazing restuarant, with local dishes - especially seafood. They make their portions huge here. The dishes are meant to be for two, but three could happily share one. There was more dancing in the street, more drumming, and music in cafes and bars. It's the tourist low-season here, so the people going to these things are mainly locals. Do they ever work?
This morning I tried capoeira - much more physically demanding. It involves kicks and blocks - a form of dance, but also a way of training fighters in disguise. We learnt the basic moves, and I learnt that I have bad coordination and balance, and reconfirmed that I am fit, but extremely inflexible.
In some ways I don't like the idea of being on a "tour" - it would be much better to be more free and true to the traveller's way. But the places you get to go on this type of tour would be hard, if not impossible to do on your own, and the huge advantage of having someone who knows his stuff book everything, and suggest things to do is invaluable. As is making new friends - both local and on the tour. It sounds like the GAP guides are mixed bags, but our one is definitely one of the best, and very experienced.
Tonight we take a night bus - 14 hours, joy! - to Olinda, the shark attack capital of Brazil. It's nice sticking to the coast, and going more and more remote.
PS I hope you NZer are enjoying Budget time!
