Ah, finally back to civilisation and my beautiful blog. Here´s what I´ve been up to.
A lot.
Firstly, the night bus from Sao Luis to Belém on the mouth of the Amazon. Remember in my last post how I said the duration was dependant on the road conditions? Well, you haven´t seen potholes until you´ve been to Brazil. Potholes, swimming pools, what´s the difference? You certainly notice the difference when you´re on a bus. Anyway, they slowed the crazy driver down, and perhaps should be credited with getting us there alive.
Once we got there it was straight to the port to find out when our boat was leaving. It was a small boat - which, according to our guide, was better than a big one. It still held 150 passengers though, plus a lot of onions and beer. It turned out we had the whole day to explore Belém.
Belém is a mixed bag, like many a place in Brazil. From the private port we were at to the city we drove through slum-like areas that were literally swimming in rubbish and filth (as it was in the water all around them). Then we got to our destination, which was a very upmarket complex where an old part of the main port used to be. Very expensive and nice food. From there we walked through the town, with busy streets, old churches (half done up, half not - one literally half and half) and a market. There were places filled with rubbish, and nice parks. There were so many spices, potions and different foods at the market. We were definitely on the Amazon.
After a brilliant last meal it was on to the NM Nelio Correa, our home for the next six days. It was dark when we left, but exciting. Belém was lit up, as were the many boats that ply the Amazon.
After being told the boats go down the middle of the Amazon, I was pleasantly surprised when we got up the next day. We could see so much, and were so close to the shore. Evidently, when you go up the Amazon, you go up the edges - I think the current is weaker there. There are so many islands breaking it up you never get a sense of how massive it truly is - but you know that it is truly is massive. There were houses with people all over on the first day, and they were all out in their canoes - their main transport. People throw them clothes and other things, as they are very poor and don´t leave their areas much. Some hitch to the boat to sell things like shrimp and the berries Acaí, others hitch a ride. But mostly the children yell and wave - actually signally to get stuff thrown to them. They love riding the boat´s wake.
The atmosphere on the boat was very laid back - loads of time to kill. I didn´t envy those in hammock class, who were the vast majority of people, and they were extremely cramped. I did however feel bad that I was in a cabin, tiny as it was, as I was betraying the true backpacker and Amazonian experience. I didn´t protest however, and it turned out to be a blessing. On the third night I came down with a fever, again, followed by the shits. Luckily though it was the same thing as last time, and I knew what antibiotics to take. Someone had some extras and gave me them (thank you very much!). I was cured within twelve hours of taking them. However I missed our longest port stop in Santarem, the largest city on the way to Manuas (about 250,000). We spent the whole day there, and I spent the whole day in bed.
The Amazon was quite high when we were on it, but it didn´t rain extraordinarily much. There were always many types of clouds in the sky though, and often lightning that you could see at night. It was usually raining hard somewhere. That didn´t stop the perils of navigation in a basic boat though. On the second night, whilst I was on the top deck, we were siting and talking, feeling the boat rock back and forth as we steered through the tricky channels. All of a sudden, the boat rocked wildly from side to side, and a few people started screaming and rushed for the life jackets. Then the engines cut, but the rocking settled. Finally they went back on, and we continued merily on the way. Sandbank.
On the third night I didn´t get much sleep as I had a fever. So inevitably I was awake when it happened again. We had just left another small port, after stopping for about half an hour. We were steering back and forth - slightly more nerve-racking in a cabin after the first sandbank experience, and when you´re wired from lack of sleep. Then, the engines slowed again, as if we were coming into port. I knew something was wrong as we´d just left somewhere. We were still steering, slowing, and then the whole boat came to an abrupt stop like a car. Not a good sign. I was really wired now, and my already fast-beating heart was going crazy. I got my torch, and went outside.
It´s always a good sign when the locals aren´t panicked, and most people were just casually standing on deck bored, and tired I assume. We were definitely well beached though. I stayed out and watched as they attempted to reverse off. I was worried we were stuck for good. After maybe fifteen minutes though, we finally wiggled our way off.
There was lots of napping, some drinking, lots of reading, lots of looking at scenery and reflecting on the way things are. Not much of a party boat, but watching a DVD of people getting injured running from bulls in Spain provided an hour of entertainment for some. Meal time was exciting, but bland by the end, and potentially sickening. A good time to meditate - I very much enjoyed it. Finally we arrived in on the morning after the sixth night. Obviously there were a few delays as we were almost a day later than we expected. From there, for the game, it was straight into the jungle and out of civilisation again that morning for another two nights. Obviously I was very keen.
Sorry about the lack of pictures, but this internet connection is insanely slow. I will post them when I can. I am now in Venezuela as of yesterday - insane after almost two months in Brazil. The tour is coming to a close, but the prospects of Mexico and seeing my big sis again soon are exciting.
I will finish the run down of my time in isolation soon.
